Essaouira Travel Guide, Morocco

If you are looking for things to do in Essaouira, start with the old town. Essaouira, known until the 1960s as Mogador, is a port city on the Atlantic coast of western Morocco with roughly 83,000 people. Its medina was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.

The town was founded in the 18th century by the Alawid sultan Mohammed bin Abdallah, who commissioned several architects to design a city suited to foreign merchants. It became Morocco’s most important commercial port and diplomatic capital for a time, and its grid-like layout and sea walls reflect that planning.

Today it is a relaxed and breezy place, nicknamed the Windy City, with a harbour and fish market, a long beach and water sports. It was once a hippie hangout, and Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens spent time here. Orson Welles filmed part of Othello in the town.

Wander the medina

The walled medina is compact and easier to navigate than those of Morocco’s larger cities. Allow two to three hours to explore shops, galleries and lanes. Visit in the morning for quiet streets, and expect friendly but persistent vendors.

Walk the ramparts and the Skala

The sea walls and the Skala de la Ville bastion offer views over the old cannons and the Atlantic. Allow around an hour. Go late afternoon for softer light, and take care near the edges, as walls can be uneven.

Visit the harbour and fish market

The working harbour is full of blue fishing boats, and the fish market sells the day’s catch. Allow an hour. You can have fish grilled nearby, so agree prices before you order and check that the fish looks fresh.

Spend time on the beach

The long beach has numerous water sports, with wind that suits windsurfing and kitesurfing. Beginners can book lessons, while walkers will find wide sand. The wind can be strong, so bring layers even on sunny days.

Browse the galleries and craft shops

Essaouira has a long tradition of arts and crafts, with woodwork and many small galleries. Allow an hour or two. Bargain politely and compare prices before buying, and ask about materials and origin for woodwork.

Find the Orson Welles square

West of the medina there is a square named after Orson Welles, who filmed part of Othello here. It is a short stop of 15 to 20 minutes, and fits well on a walk toward the seafront.

Take a day on horseback or camel

Local operators offer rides along the beach and dunes outside town. Allow two to three hours. Choose a company with well-kept animals, ask about group sizes and check that helmets are available for horse rides.

Spring, April to June, and early autumn, September to October, are the most comfortable times, with mild temperatures and plenty of sunshine. The Atlantic wind keeps the town cooler than inland cities, which is a welcome change from Marrakech.

Summer is warm but windy, which suits kitesurfers and windsurfers, though the beach can feel breezy for sunbathers. It is also the busiest period, with higher prices and busy streets, especially on weekends.

Winter days are mild, though it can be cool and wet, and evenings are chilly, so pack layers and a rain jacket. Some businesses have shorter hours then, and the sea is cold. Check the forecast for wind and swell if you plan to book water sports, as conditions change quickly.

Essaouira-Mogador Airport lies about 16 km southeast of the town and has flights from several European cities, with some seasonal routes. Schedules change, so check before you book. Print your boarding pass in advance, as airport check-in rules can be strict.

Many travellers come overland from Marrakech, around three hours by bus or car, depending on traffic. Buses also run from other cities such as Agadir and Casablanca. Book long-distance tickets ahead in busy periods.

The medina is small, car-free in most parts and best explored on foot. Small taxis cover trips to the beach or outside the walls. If you arrive by car, park outside the old town and walk in. Agree taxi fares before getting in if there is no meter.

A riad inside the medina is the classic choice, with traditional courtyards, rooftop terraces and breakfast. It suits couples and anyone wanting atmosphere. Rooms can be small, and lanes are narrow, so travel light.

The area near the beach and the newer part of town suits those who want a hotel with a pool, sea views or easy access to water sports. It is slightly removed from the medina but within a short walk or taxi ride.

Guesthouses and apartments on the edge of the old town give good value and a quieter setting. If you are visiting in winter, ask about heating, as many traditional buildings are cool. Book ahead for spring weekends and holidays, as the best-placed riads fill up quickly.

Two days gives you enough time for the medina, ramparts, harbour and a beach stroll. Three days adds water sports, a horse ride or a slower pace.

1. Day 1: Medina in the morning, harbour and fish market at lunchtime, then the ramparts at sunset.
2. Day 2: Beach time or a water sports lesson, then galleries and craft shops in the afternoon.
3. Day 3: A ride along the beach, or a trip along the coast toward Agadir or Taghazout.

Essaouira works well as a stop between Marrakech and the Atlantic coast to the south.

Marrakech

The nearest major city, about three hours away. It is a long day trip but a common start or end point for a visit to Essaouira, with a very different, busier atmosphere.

Agadir

A larger beach resort to the south on the Atlantic coast. It is a few hours away by road, so treat it as a next stop rather than a quick trip from Essaouira.

Taghazout

A surf village near Agadir, known for its waves and relaxed atmosphere. It suits an overnight stay if you are moving south along the coast.

Casablanca

Morocco’s largest city lies to the north, with a major airport and the Hassan II Mosque. It is a long journey, so use it as a gateway, not a day trip.